Modern Raised Cedar Garden Planter

Tools

• Tape Measure
• Combination Square
• Pencil
• Miter Saw or Circular Saw
• Table Saw
• Drill
• Impact Driver
• Random Orbital Sander
• Clamps

Materials

• Cedar 1x6 boards (As required)
• Cedar 1x4 boards (As required)
• Exterior wood glue (Small amount)
• Landscape fabric (Enough to line the interior)
• Sandpaper (120 and 180 grit)
• Exterior finish (Optional)

Hardware

• 1-1/4 in exterior screws (As required)
• 1-5/8 in exterior screws (As required)

Cut list

• Front and back wall boards — 6 × 46.5 in x 5-1/2 in x 3/4 in Cedar 1x6
• Left and right side wall boards — 6 × 15 in x 5-1/2 in x 3/4 in Cedar 1x6
• Corner leg L pieces — 8 × 32 in x 3-1/2 in x 3/4 in Cedar 1x4
• Bottom support cleats — 2 × 15 in x 1-1/2 in x 3/4 in Cedar
• Bottom slats — 5 × 46.5 in x 3 in x 3/4 in Cedar

Diagrams

Build steps

1. Prep: Verify Stock and Lay Out Parts

   • Confirm the actual cedar thickness and width before cutting. • Check that three stacked 1x6 boards create the intended planter wall height. • Lay out all parts by assembly so front, back, left, and right stay organized. • Remember that the side wall boards are shorter because the front and back assemblies fit between the side assemblies.

2. Cutting: Break Down All Cedar Parts

   • Set up a stop block if using a miter saw for repeatable cuts. • Cut eight leg pieces to 32 in from cedar 1x4 stock. • Cut six long wall boards to 46.5 in for the front and back assemblies. • Cut six short wall boards to 15 in for the left and right side assemblies. • Rip two cleats to 1-1/2 in wide, then cut them to 15 in long. • Rip five bottom slats to 3 in wide, then cut them to 46.5 in long. • Stack matching parts together and verify equal lengths before assembly.

3. Assembly: Build the Front and Back Wall Assemblies

   • Lay out two 32 in leg pieces and three 46.5 in cedar 1x6 boards on a flat surface. • Position the wall boards between the leg pieces with the top board flush to the top of the legs. • Leave a consistent 1/4 in gap between each board for appearance and seasonal wood movement. • Clamp everything in position and check the assembly for square before fastening. • Pre-drill and fasten the wall boards to the legs using exterior-rated screws from the inside face. • Repeat the process to build the second matching wall assembly. • Verify both assemblies are identical in size and remain flat before moving on.

4. Assembly: Build the Left and Right Side Wall Assemblies

   • Lay out two 32 in leg pieces and three 15 in cedar 1x6 boards on a flat surface. • Position the wall boards between the leg pieces with the top board flush to the top of the legs. • Position the leg pieces so they extend 1-1/2 in beyond both ends of the wall boards. • Use the same 1/4 in spacing between boards as the front and back assemblies. • Clamp everything in position and verify the assembly remains square before fastening. • Pre-drill and fasten the wall boards to the leg pieces using exterior-rated screws from the inside face. • Repeat the process to build the second matching side assembly. • Glue and screw one bottom support cleat to the inside lower area of each side assembly. • Compare both side assemblies to ensure they are identical before proceeding.

5. Assembly: Join the Wall Assemblies and Form the Corner Legs

   • Stand the front, back, left, and right wall assemblies upright on a flat surface. • Position the front and back assemblies between the projecting leg pieces of the side assemblies. • Clamp one corner at a time and verify the top edges remain flush. • Fasten the overlapping leg pieces together with exterior-rated screws to create the finished L-shaped corner legs. • Repeat for all four corners while checking that the planter remains square. • Measure both diagonals across the top opening and adjust if necessary before fully tightening all fasteners. • Verify the planter body sits flat and all four corners are tight and aligned.

6. Fit-Out: Install the Cedar Bottom Slats

   • Set the planter upright and test-fit all five slats across the cleats before fastening. • Space the slats evenly with 1/4 in drainage gaps. • Pre-drill near the slat ends to avoid splitting the cedar. • Fasten each slat down into the cleats with 1-1/4 in exterior screws using two screws per end. • Do not glue the bottom slats in place so they remain serviceable if needed. • Confirm the drainage gaps remain open after fastening.

7. Refinement: Sand, Ease Edges, and Final Checks

   • Sand all exposed surfaces with a random orbital sander. • Focus on splinters, end grain, and sharp top edges. • Lightly ease corners by hand so the planter feels finished without looking rounded over. • Inspect all screw heads and drive any proud fasteners flush. • Make sure the planter sits square and the bottom slats still show clear drainage gaps.

8. Finishing: Prep for Outdoor Use

   • Leave the inside unfinished if the planter will hold soil directly and you want the cedar to weather naturally. • If desired, apply exterior penetrating oil or deck stain to the outside only. • Let the finish dry fully before filling the planter. • Line the inside with landscape fabric while keeping drainage paths open. • Place the planter on a level surface so water drains evenly through the slatted bottom.

Safety notes

• Wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and appropriate respiratory protection when cutting, sanding, routing, or machining materials.
• Read the entire project plan and confirm all measurements, material sizes, and tool setups before beginning any cuts or assembly.
• Always follow manufacturer safety instructions and use proper safety equipment such as push sticks, guards, clamps, and stable work supports.
• Never operate tools while fatigued, distracted, or under the influence, and seek supervision or assistance when using unfamiliar tools or techniques.
• Maker Mind provides informational project guidance only; users are responsible for safe tool operation, verifying measurements, and maintaining a safe workshop environment.

Finishing suggestions

• Leave the cedar unfinished for a natural weathered gray look.
• Apply exterior penetrating oil to the outside faces for richer color and easier maintenance.
• Use an exterior semi-transparent deck stain on the outside only if you want longer color retention.
• Avoid film-forming interior finishes because they do not hold up well with wet soil and outdoor exposure.

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